Introducing Qool Wines.

In the spirit of practicing what I preach, I humbly present the concept of "Qool Wines," namely wines so irresistibly beguiling that they are not simply cool, they're qool—and they defy ratings, of course. Qool wines taste great, naturally, but they have a little something extra that makes me want to jump up and tell folks about them.

Qool Wines for Outdoor Sippin'
March 2006: Fine Napa SBs and Chilean Cabernet
Qool Wines for January 2006
Qool Wines for October
Summer 2005 Qool Wines
Qool Wines for May: A Treat for the Eyes + Palate
Qool Wines for March: Kooky Blends
February Qool Wine: Still Feeling Romantic?
Two Qool Wines for January and Beyond
Cool Game, Qool Wine
November's Qool Pair from Hungary
Two Qool Reds, Just in Time for Cool Weather
Qool Wine Quartet
New Wave from Spain
Play with This: Roshambo
Screwcap Nation
Thinkin' Pink
Owen Roe Abbot's Table

June 2006: Qool Wines for Outdoor Sippin'
My wine tastes can swing, and through most of 2005 my favorite wines often fell into the category I call Splendid Blendeds (article at Wine Review Online). But this month, I’m feeling a little mod and retro at the same time. Going back to two Bordeaux grapes that have found productive outposts abroad.

• Crisp White Blends: Las Brisas 2004, a mixture of Viura, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo from the Rueda region of Spain, will make you question why anyone puts white wine in oak; clean, pure, vivid and widely available at $10 or less. I’m happy to spread the word about Masi’s 2005 “Masianco,” a provocative combo of 75% Pinot Grigio and 25% Verduzzo (picked late for extra ripeness). The deceptively pale wine delivers surprising richness and length, with fruit that seems to reverberate between citrus, stone and tropical inflections; this wine, in only its second or third vintage, makes most similarly priced ($12) PGs taste like just so much bottled water.
  
  
  
• Fruity Rieslings: Maybe the only evidence of me getting smarter in my middle age is that I am  drinking more Riesling every year. Loosen’s  “Dr. L” is a light, balanced, peachy delight in every vintage; at $10, it’s a wine to buy by the case.  But the New Yorker in me likes showing off by pouring examples from the Finger Lakes. Dr. Konstantin Frank  2005 Dry Riesling and the 2005 Standing Stone are plump and bootilicious crowdpleasers at under $15. (For these and many more NY  State wines, visit www.vintageny.com, a NY specialisty retailer and wine bar; they give great service and recommendations.)
  
  
  
• Spanish Reds that Know Their Place: Theyíre called table wines for a reason: they sit nicely on a table and play well with food. Of course, they work in the backyard just as well. A fellow wine scribe re-introduced me to Conde de Valdemar Rioja Crianza recently. Earthy yet fruity, firmly structured but not too big and with a stiff backbone to take on all sorts of condiments, rubs and full-flavored folderolÖthis modest red can close the deal. If you lean toward the new and creative from Spain, here are two stunners: Luzon Verde 2004 Monastrell (from Jumilla); between the ripasso-like richness and the $9 price tage, itís enough to make you plotz. And at about $18, Iíd put the Can Blau 2004 Montsant (Carignan, Syrah, Garnacha) up against comparable blends from the RhÙne and Australia price twice as much. When I poured six different blends at a recent tasting, Can Blau was the runaway favorite.
  
  
  
• Domestic Dandies: Schneider Vineyardís second label, Potato Barn, is one of my favorite Long Island bottlings; the 2003 Potato Barn Red makes the most of its dual grapes, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, delivering a solid $15 red that is at once juicy and herbal. It should be standard issue with all grills. For about the same coin, Waterbrook 2004 MÈlange from Columbia Valley in Washington goes down really easy; donít be surprised if itís the first bottle that gets drained at your next party. The blend is Merlot-driven but with dashes of Syrah and Sangiovese. If you like your Washington Merlot a little beefier, try Columbia Wineryís 2002 Columbia Valley Merlot; grippy tannins will hold on tightÖuntil the burgers arrive.

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March 2006: Fine Napa SBs and Chilean Cabernet
My wine tastes can swing, and through most of 2005 my favorite wines often fell into the category I call Splendid Blendeds (article at Wine Review Online). But this month, I’m feeling a little mod and retro at the same time. Going back to two Bordeaux grapes that have found productive outposts abroad.

• Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. As crisp and refreshing as New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs can be, this winter I found myself drawn to fleshier Sauvignons from Napa. And it makes sense, empirically, that a region so successful with Bordeaux’s revered red grape can also excel at its best white. Here are two SBs that will banish any certainty that Napa is Chard-only country. Incredibly consistent from year to year, St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc has impeccable balance of bright citrus and varietally correct herbal notes, with a long finish that ends like an orchestra holding a harmonic note. Current vintage is 2004; not cheap at $18, but well worth it. Find out more at www.stsupery.com. One step up the ladder toward sublimity: Source Napa 2004 Sauvignon Blanc is proof that Bill Davies and Tom Gamble are second-generation Napans to reckon with. This wine is as intense and complex as American white wine gets. Start with the body, worthy of a Sports Illustrated swimsuit model. Atop that sturdy base are piles of fruit—citrus and melons and more, oh my!—with enough acid to balance the fruit without being over-aggressive. It’s over $30, but I’d take this flagship SB over nine out of ten over $30 Napa Chards. Learn more at www.sourcenapa.com.
  
  
  
• Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon : “Root:1.” I had this wine under the table, so to speak, at a  tasting I did for the Harvard Alumni of Westchester. Truth be told, it was a backup designed to soothe the masses if we ran out of the other “trend-o-licious” wines I was serving. Sure enough, Pinot-philes ransacked my Shea 2003 Willamatte Valley Pinot Noir, but this nifty Cabernet proved every bit as satisfying. Not only did its cassis-driven fruit, vanilla undertones and silky texture impress, but the silkscreened package with unique neck tab gave it extra eye appeal. And the price—$12—helped it make instant friends. Good enough to play House Wine at even the most discriminating tables, “Root: 1” also bears the X-factor of hailing from vineyards that have unfettered by the phylloxera scourge that ravaged European and North American vines in decades past. This one’s not a keeper in the cellar sense, but it begs to be shared. Find out more at www.root1wine.com.

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Qool Wines for January 2006
Four wallet-friendly bottles to enjoy while paying off those credit card bills:

• Bella Sera 2004 Rosso della Venezie. I can tell you that this light, bright red wine is a blend of five grapes (Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella, Teroldego and Schiava) from Italy’s Veneto region, but that hardly matters. What counts here is style: fresh, soft and very berryish. Terroir is not a factor, though seasoned tasters might recognize a kinship with fresh, fruity Bardolino. But somehow the Bella Sera Rosso tastes more modern, and draws its inspiration as much if not more from Hearty Burgundy, the popular California kitchen-sink blend whose heyday was 25 years ago. And that’s no surprise; both hail from the increasingly diverse and nimble Gallo portfolio. The comfortably-under-$10 Rosso is not as widely distributed as Bella Sera Pinot Grigio yet, but there ought to be plenty around come warm-weather months. For more, visit www.bellaserawine.com.
  
  
  
• La Vieille Ferme Rouge 2004 Côtes-du-Ventoux. I had not had this southern Rhône blend for several vintages, I was blown away but its quality at the $8.99 price point. Surprisingly rich black cherry core, surrounded by touches of spice and earth one would expect from a higher-pedigree Rhône such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras. Made from traditional regional varietes Grenache, Syrah, Carignane and Cinsault. Buy it now, screwtop and all, for a taste of why France is certain to bounce back form recent economic and political wine woes. More on LVF at www.vineyardbrands.com.
  
  
  
• Kendall-Jackson 2004 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. OK, pick your jaw up off the floor right now…you’ll need it to enjoy this California throwback. I admit I don’t drink that much Chardonnay, but I was stunned by the balance and ripeness of this basic K-J is. Tropical City, with those signature kisses of butter, oak, vanilla and sweetness in the finish. I even preferred it to the higher-priced K-J Grand Reserve. When I want a “better” Cal-Chard I will still go with Landmark at $25; and for “exquisite” Chard there’s always Staglin over $50. But for anyday Chard, K-J takes the guesswork out of a bloated category.
  
  
  
• Anakena 2005 “Ona,” Chile. This wine haunted me for months after I chanced upon it at a big Chilean trade tasting last January. It’s a modern classic—a blend of three grapes (35% Viognier, 35% Riesling, 30% Chardonnay) whose final profile bears elements of all three while still tasting utterly distinctive. I stumbled upon it again at a Total Wine store in Virginia, bought a case, and have received nothing but compliments every time I pour it. Floral, yes; minerally, yes; fruity, yes. Take this buxom blend to the bank for only $15; and then take it wherever good food is served. For more info on this and other excellent Anakena Chilean wines, visit www.evaton.net.
  
  

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Qool Wines for October
I’m still smitten with blends, especially avant-garde ones I like to call “Splendid Blendeds.” (To read my piece on this trend at winereviewonline.com, click here.) I have three Qool Wines for October: one you can buy for $10, one you’ll be lucky to buy anywhere, and a brotherly pair of brand-new bottlings from a too-often-forgotten French region… 

• It’s called “The Blend.” Made by Tuscan producer Poggiotondo and imported by Winebow, The 2004 represents the very first vintage of this incredible $9.99 Tuscan red. Bright, juicy and downright sexy, the Poggiotondo ’04 The Blend was the biggest surprise I had come out of a bottle all summer. The trick: I think it’s the 30% Syrah that gets along swimmingly with the 40% Sangiovese and 30% Merlot. My previous favorite $10 kitchen-sink red from Italy was Falesco’s Vitiano bottling. The Blend has less oak and mo’ better fruit. Here’s to hoping they can make as much of this as Falesco does Vitiano. Visit www.winebow.com for more on both.
  
  
  
• Bedell Cellars has always meant Merlot to me. But Bedell Cellars 2004 Taste, featuring a jarring label design by artist Barbara Kruger, has simply changed the way I think about Long Island. I try to avoid the word exotic when describing wine, but that’s where this sultry femme fatale of a white wine starts. Anchored by 50% Viognier and rounded out with 35% Chardonnay and 15% Gewürztraminer, this is a true gestalt wine, with the whole transcending the parts. A fleshy, rich wine with Alsace-like aromatics, bushels of tropical fruit and gentle spice that all take a bow in the finish. I’d put this $25 wine up against any white at the price. That’s the good news. Bad news: it’s gone, from the winery at least. I bought five cases and have about three left to keep pouring at my private and corporate tastings. There may still be some at Vintage New York at $29. There’s also a red Taste, all Merlot, with the same label; see both at www.bedellcellars.com.  
  

• Corbières, anyone? I’d bet two-thirds of the wine shops in America don’t carry any Corbières. I shiver at the thought of how many retailers have never even heard of it. This appellation, however, is a classic outpost in France’s Languedoc region, and I am impressed by what Domaines Barons de Rothschild has done in reviving Château d’Aussières. Let’s skip the history dating back to Roman times (except for the fact that Napoleon Bonaparte once owned it). What counts is that DBR (that’s the Lafite Rothschilds, not Mouton) bought the run-down property in 1999, replanted nearly 400 acres, and the first releases from the 2003 vintage are stellar. The main wine, Chateau d’Aussières is backed up by a second label—“A” d’Aussières—which I like even more. It walks confidently between dense, dark aging potential and knock-your-socks-off-today appeal.
  
  
  And I love how this pair of brand-new estate bottlings define what’s great about French wine: 1) “A” is made from the same grape mix as Rhônes (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan) but it’s not a Rhône, just like it’s not exactly like other Languedoc appellations…it’s Corbières, mais oui. 2) The Chateau wine is arguably bigger and better than the second label; that’s why it costs more ($30 compared to $20) and will likely improve if cellared. 3) Someone who tried this wine with me went to buy a bottle in Brooklyn; she couldn’t find the exact one, so she happily bought another Corbières. That’s what the AOC system does when it works: it lets you feel comfortable sampling horizontally within a region.
  
  
  For more on Aussières (which doesn’t quite rhyme with awesome, but may be close enough to help remember the name), click here to visit Pasternak Imports. 

Summer 2005 Qool Wines
Memories of hazy heat...and invigorating white wines...

• Like Albariño, Spain’s answer to seafood. Nora and Peitán at the $10-$12 end are perfect examples with zaftig body, bodacious fruit, and tang that lifts everything up like high tide.

• And the best under-$10 German Riesling I’ve ever had in a long while: Kuhl. As in cool! Another favorite bargain: Loosen’s Dr. L.

• It bugs me that Loire whites don’t get more respect. With something like 40 appellations along 40 miles of river banks, the Loire Valley embodies France in a nutshell. It’s hard to get warm and fuzzy about so many village names, but a good, balanced Vouvray (100% Chenin Blanc) is hard to beat with fish dishes. I’ve always enjoyed Bourillon d’Orleans.

• I even found myself enjoying Chardonnay more than usual this summer. Good value in California from Sebastiani around $10, Kali-Hart at $15 and Wild Horse under $20. For a splurge, consider the awkwardly named but thoroughly delicious “8” from Napa Valley (I believe the winery’s full name is Vineyard 7 & 8.). I had the 2001 and it seemed built for the long haul. And for short or long term, you can bank on elegance from Domaine Laroche, now bottling every one of their Chablis in screwtops.

• If there were a Hall of Fame for summer wines, Prosecco would be in on the first ballot. So light it’s practically ethereal, and sporting a mélange of apple fruit, refreshing sparkle and subtle sweetness. I find consistency within the genre and happily pour Mionetto, Zardetto and Nino Franco “Rustico,” all $12. Prosecco hails from the Veneto, where making it as bubbly compensates for thin-skinned grapes too meek to make good table wine. It is also the base for the famed Bellini of Harry’s Bar in Venice. But who’s got the time to mash white peaches into purée? Make up your own crowd-pleaser by combining a bottle of Prosecco with 1½ cups of canned or bottled fruit nectar of your choice (pear, apricot, mango…). Serve it cold and fast (bubbly cocktails lose their charm as the fizz fades).

• And one red. Make that THE red, as in the new $10ish 2002 “RED” from St. Francis Winery in Sonoma. With its mix of four far-flung grapes—Zinfandel, Merlot, Grenache, Sangiovese—it’s a veritable kitchen-sink. Does it taste like those grapes? Well, yes and no. RED delivers a ripe berryish burst, a slap of spicy oak, fullish body and a texture that’s mouthfilling without rough edges. Think of it as a fruit grenade, rather than a bomb, with no single grape dominating. RED was THE hit of a new wine event format called Trend-O-Licious that I tried this summer for a couple of law firms. And it’s a perfect example of outside-the-box blending that I cover in at www.winereviewonline.com. (But then you knew that, because you already went there and read the piece, right?) Bonus feature: RED’s nifty splatter-art label comes in 12 different versions; see them all at kobrand.com.

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Qool Wines for May: A Treat for the Eyes + Palate
Don't judge a wine by its label? Why not, if the label makes you not want to put the bottle down! Lo Tengo wines from Argentina, made by the Mendoza-based Bodega Norton, feature a "lenticular" label that appears to move as you walk past it in a store or hold the bottle and rotate it. It's like a hologram, but really is two black-and-white photo images of dancers that flip back and forth (the label surface like those souvenir postcards with the ridges that makes funny sound when you run a fingernail across them). The Lo Tengo name is a bit misleading, in that it means "I've got it" but paired with the imagery it seems intended to imply Tango, as in the dance. There are two wines under the Lo Tengo label, both terrific examples of their type. The Lo Tengo 2003 Malbec is dark and fruity but with a nice smooth texture; I'd put it in the same niche as Alamos, Valentin Bianchi, Los Altos and Gascon. The 2004 Torrontes is a spot-on example of this delicate, floral white varietal, ideal for outdoor sipping. Both about $10, the wines have only been in the U.S. a few months, so they may not be widely available yet, but both are worth the hunt.

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Qool Wines for March: Kooky Blends
I confess: I am cuckoo for kooky blends. As much as I respect and enjoy classic blends of the Old World such as Bordeaux, Rioja, Champagne, Cotes du Rhone, et al, I am fascinated by wines that teach old grapes new tricks. These are wines I buy frequently for my own curiosity and will soon showcase in a wine+fun event (see below). Two recent hits qualify for Qool Wine status:

The Lucky Country 2003 is a remarkable $18 wine from the Barossa Valley boutique producer Two Hands. Basically half Shiraz and half Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine somehow stands out from almost every other Cab-Shiraz Aussie I've tried. The ripe nose and palate are jammed with practically every berry that graces the earth, and a peppery mintiness on the finish that kept calling me back. My favorite Two Hands offering, by far.

As a contrast to the bright fruit-bomb character of the Lucky Country, I recommend Immensum Rosso 2001, a crafty new wine from the producer Candido in the Salento region of Puglia (southern Italy). Here, inky fruit from 32-year-old Negro Amaro vines gets to tango with 12-year-old Cabernet (20%). The result is an impeccably balanced taste of the "dark side," full of classic Italian aromas of earth and stewed/roasted fruit, but with threads of sweet fruit and tangy acidity on the palate that keep the wine from being too dark and rich. This wine calls for food as easily as a New Yorker hails a cab; it's worth every bit of its $20 tag. The name makes me smile, too, but I would never call the wine immense. Click here for more info.

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February Qool Wine: Still Feeling Romantic?
OK, OK, I missed getting this Flash out in time for V-Day this year. I trust all you Grape-loving romantics out there managed to make the most of it. Usually when the time comes to pair wine with Hallmark cards, I recommend, for red, white and sparkling, respectively: Calon-Ségur (solid $40-ish St. Estèphe with a simple heart on the label); Hugel "Cuvée Les Amours" Pinot Blanc (Riesling is sexier, but what the hey); and, mais oui, rosé Champagne (can't go wrong with Nicolas Feuillatte, Taittinger or Gosset).

This year, however, I want to showcase a wine that deserves to be inspiring romance way past February. The wine is Seduction, a lush of a red blend from Napa Valley. Three things I love about this wine: 1) a h-h-h-hot package—the sleek, dark bottle comes in a sheer, burgundy-colored sack, made of fabric that would fit right in at Victoria's Secret; 2) s-s-s-silky texture, all the better to show off the Cab-ilicious flavor profile; and 3) a head-turning price tag, under $30, which is rare indeed for Napa wine these days.

Once the bottle is undressed, so to speak, the "Seduction" name, in teasingly understated red type, is complemented on the front label by a big gold "O." No, the O is not for orgasm, it's for O'Brien. As in O'Brien Family Vineyards. The O'Briens arrived in Napa at the turn of this century, and they also make straightforward Merlot and Chardonnay. I met Bart O'Brien in Manhattan last month, where he had just made placements for Seduction at Grande Harvest and Ambassador Wines. He explained to me that Seduction is geared toward "the woman of the new millennium." Personally, I don't buy into the idea that women's taste in wine, or reasons for buying, are inherently different from men's. But I love that fact that while O'Brien describes it is a Bordeaux-style blend, he won't reveal the proportions of Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, et al. Like any good episode of seduction, leaving something to the imagination is definitely qool.

For more Qool Wines archived at wineforall.com, click here.
For more info on Seduction, visit www.seductionwine.com.

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Two Qool Wines for January and Beyond
1) Is New Zealand Pinot Noir the next New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? I received a sample of a Stoneleigh 2003 Pinot Noir from Marlborough recently, and while it didn't make me dance a jig, I couldn't help but be impressed by its clean, well-balanced appeal. It's what I like to call a "Goldilocks" wine: not too light, not to heavy; not too fruity, not too earthy; not too simple, not too complex. Maybe most important of all, at $16 this modest fruity beauty is enough to make me revise my former view that good Pinot under $20 is a pipe dream. Stylistically, I preferred the Stoneleigh to comparably priced examples from California (too tutti-frutti), Oregon (no stuffing) and Burgundy (fruit-shy). If New Zealand can pump out Pinot of this caliber in significant volume (and Stoneleigh is no small operation), then we are all in for a treat.

2) I remember wincing a couple years ago when I saw Eroica, the Washington State Riesling made jointly by Chateau Ste. Michelle and Germany's Dr. Loosen, on Wine Spectator's Top 100. I selfishly feared that my personal access to this dry white gem would be seriously curtailed by the impending onslaught of cherry-pickers. Fortunately (or unfortunately), the rush to Riesling. Alas, the 2003 Eroica was again a Top 100 selection in WS's 2004 list, but I have seen it for sale in three separate retail stores in the past week. Don't let this opportunity pass! Eroica is the pinnacle of American Riesling; dry but ebulliently fruity (peaches, apricots) and with length and balance that make it a no-brainer for practically any food this side of beef. I was reminded of its versatility this month when I had to find a wine to complement both a bibb lettuce salad with blue cheese, currants and sherry vinaigrette and a halibut steak with chive-lemon butter. Eroica rocks. (And if you read the label really really fast it looks like Erotica—now that's qool!)

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Cool Game, Qool Wine.
Yes, it's totally silly, but it's also kind of fun. Head over to wineforall.com and play "Find the Hidden Yquem!"—a kitschy little tribute to Chateau d'Yquem, the über dessert wine from the fog-riddled slice of Bordeaux known as Sauternes.

FYI, if the game leaves you pining for nectar, it doesn't have to be Yquem. The 2001 Sauternes vintage now in the U.S. is especially fine. For wine enthusiasts who are heartbroken because they can't find Rieussec 2001 since Wine Spectator made it Numero Uno, fret no more. I humbly present as Qool Wine of December the 2001 Chateau Doisy-Védrines. A half-bottle runs $23 in my 'hood, and when you consider that even 375 mls can serve 10, it's an outrageous value for anyone with a vinous sweet tooth.

Some people like Sauternes old and honeyed; others like it young and a touch funky. Two tips that hold up either way: 1) don't serve Sauternes too cold (the big chill can really put a damper on complexity) and 2) if you're having dessert with it, make sure the dessert is less sweet than the wine (classic companions for Sauternes include crème brûlée, fresh fruit tart, shortbread/biscotti). If your tastes swing toward the rich-savory side, Sauternes with foie gras or blue-veined cheeses is out of this world.

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November's Qool Pair
Talk about an eye-opener, I recently had the opportunity to sample a range of wines from Hungary at a Wine Media Guild luncheon in New York, and I can't recall any other event that so totally transformed my previous impressions of a wine region. I've always been a fan of Tokaji, the country's storied late-harvest elixir. But it was the table wines made by Monarchia that grabbed me by the palate that day. Not just clean and well-made, these wines were provocative and bursting with character. Some were priced quite high—a reflection primarily of limited supply. The two I would single out are well worth their under-$20 tags.

"Qool Wine" status this month goes to the delicious Monarchia 2003 Olivier. Made entirely of Irsai Olivier grapes grown in Buda-Etyek, this surprisingly full-bodied white bears a stark resemblance to an Alsace Riesling or Muscat. Penetrating green apple and citrus aromas bring more of the same on the rounded palate, with a clean finish that left me wanting more. Suggested retail is $13; I'll be buying this wine to serve blind wherever wine snobs roam.

On the red side, I was most impressed by Monarchia's 2003 "Mini Evolution" from the Villány region. Basically a modified Bordeaux blend, this is a junior version of the more serious "Evolution," but it lacks nothing in the pleasure department: medium body lets the lively acidity and ripe red-fruit take center stage. Could easily accompany any sort of meat dish or even spicier fare. I don't think I've ever had Zweigelt or Kekoporto (Blauer Portugieser) before, but their presence (17% each) in the mix is surely what raises this interesting red above the usual Cab/Merlot Cab Franc blend. And for $15, it’s a great value. For more on these wines, visit www.monarchiawines.com.

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Two Qool Reds, Just in Time for Cool Weather
The first Qool Wine of Oqtober, You Bet Shiraz, is a cheeky little number. Literally cheeky, you might say, when viewing the shapely derrière on the label, replete with butterfly tattoo. No mere gimmick, however, this $9.99 Shiraz stands out from its peers for what's in the bottle. Most low-end Aussie Shirazes come across as ripe and jammy but soft and fleeting. This one has real oomph, though, and structure you'll still respect the next morning. That South Eastern Oz Shiraz character—which comes across as cherry-eucalyptus cough medicine in some high-end bottles—is fairly modest here; fruit-driven but not overripe, it's countered by a dash of spice. Have it with pizza, meatloaf, chicken or semi-serious cheese. I wish I could say, "You bet You Bet's on sale near you!" Alas, this 2002 is the first vintage in the U.S., and distribution is still developing. Here in the NY metro area, Zachy's apparently snapped up the entire first load of You Bet '02. I trust more is on the way. For more on availability, check www.youbetshiraz.com.

Every red-blooded red wine lover knows that California is producing its share of excellent Cabs. It is also churning out its share of overpriced monsters. It's enough to make even Cali-philes cranky. Here is one risk-free solution: Louis M. Martini's Monte Rosso Cabernet. It's easy to love the gorgeous blackberry fruit, the nudge of oak and enough balance to get me across a highwire carrying three bags of groceries. But I also love the way Monte Rosso carries a badge of Old World sensibility: this Sonoma mountaintop earned its single-vineyard pedigree long before the modern age of Block Hither, Yon Parcel and Sally-Bertha's Cousin's Cuvée. I had the good fortune to sampled the 1974 Monte Rosso Cab at the Sonoma Valley Harvest Festival last month, alongside the soon-to-be-released 2001 (early 2005 release). The '74 was still bright and lively, the fruit and acid remarkably fit. And the '01 was already hitting juicy high notes against a sturdy but flexible frame. Considering the pricing on high-ticket small-lot Cabs coming from peach-fuzzy wineries, the Monte Rosso is a relative value at under $60. Among other sensibly priced Martini Cabs, the straight Sonoma County is a fine $16 bottle.

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Qool Wine Quartet.
Every summer I do a tasting for a small group, in honor of one of their birthdays. The trick to this tasting is that these people are the Good Life, and are well versed in mainstream French, Italian and California bottles. My mission is to surprise them. Here are four highlights from the 2004 lineup, all of which fit the Wine For All criteria for Qoolness:

POP Champagne. Mini bottles of Pommery—blue, pop art, and (brand new) magenta for the rosé—were a smash. These colorful tiny tipples turn heads and tickle palates. Not cheap at $10 a pop, but a thrill nonetheless.

Damijan. Pronounced "Dah-me-yon" (preferably in a sultry voice), this eponymous label sounds like a good name for a James Bond villain. Or maybe an Italian sports car. But it's really just a very quixotic Collio Bianco "Kaplja," a delicious blend of Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano and Malvasia Istriana. So darn intense it could pass for red, the deep golden wine reminded me of a vendange tardive Alsace rich and viscous and fruity without quite being sweet. Credit the long skin contact, the lack of filtration, and throwback winemaking so natural that the winery doesn't even have stainless steel. I got the last bottle of '99 at my local retailer, and ordered a case of the 2001. About $40 a bottle, and worth it. For info, visit www.montecastelli.com

Bodegas Montecillo 1982 Gran Reserva Selección Especial. Oh. My. Dios. A shining example of aged Rioja which has lost none of its brightness even while gaining spicy complexity. Impressed even the Bordeaux-trained palates of the group. This bottling is a special order stateside, but it is indeed available nationally, and a real deal at $75. The 1995 Gran Reserva, about $25 and already widely distributed, is pretty darn especial as well.

Catena 2000 "Zapata". New World magic. A bold blend of Cabernet and Malbec from one of Argentina's top producers. Decanted, it was ready to strut: huge fruit, integrated oak, chewable but supportive tannins, and simply a beautiful, less inky version of Malbec. From 15-year-old vines, so future vintages should be even better. It's a wallet cruncher at $90, but the tag hurts less when you drink it.

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—July 29, 2004
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—June 24, 2004
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—June 3, 2004
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—May 27, 2004
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Owen Roe 2002 Abbot's Table is a kitchen-sink, Washington-and-Oregon blend of six grapes that rarely ever get to hang out in the same bottle. Imagine a Bordeauxish foundation of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc that's been given a spicy/jammy dose of Syrah, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. The end result is a wine that pulls the taster's attention back and forth between playful aromatics, serious fruit and plush texture. Retails for about $29 but can hold its own with any $50 bottle. Check out more about the Abbot's Table at www.owenroe.com.

—May 18, 2004
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